Over the last couple of weeks I have been madly making toiles and pattern cutting for my garden coat. I started with a vintage 1930’s house coat pattern that I bought on ebay. Making the pattern up with no changes quickly revealed areas that needed to be updated. The cleavage was a very different shape to what we are more used to 70 years later – underwear must have changed too!

vintage-toile-no-belt

 I then tried adding a belt to excentuate the waist from the front:

vintage-pattern-toile

 And from the back:

vintage-pattern-toile-back

The next phase focused on pattern cutting – changing the pattern to a size 10/12, updating the shape of the bust, dropping the arm hole, and adding more flare at the hip.

pattern-cutting-for-coat

 This was then made up as a calico toile to test the final pattern. I also decided to update the design further shortening the whole coat to make it a bit more cheeky:

toile-2-adapted-pattern

 Side…

toile-2-side

Back… 

toile-2-back

Next step – add lining and start preparing fabrics for final coat…

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